Shoe construction



y 1940- D. E. LEVIN ET AL 2.200.068

SHOE ccmswnucnon Filed March 14, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I \NVENTORS D V 0E. LEV/N. cfgspb/ [4K A/c-EE. B 1

ATTORNEY roamed May 7,1940 v V 2,200,068 I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICESHOE CONSTRUCTION David E. Levin, Brooklyn, and Joseph W. McGee,-Manhasset, N. Y., assignors to Jodel Inc., a corporation of New YorkApplication March 14, 1939, Serial No. 261,708

Claims. (01. 36-11) This invention is for a shoe construction andsisting shoe is formed because the sole and part has for its main objectto provide a shoe in which of the upper is formed of strong sole leatherand the sole, the toe box, the counter, an arch supin one piece. 7 port,a heel seat, and part of the upper are-all By the term sole leather" asusedthrough- 5 formed in one piece. This one piece is molded out thespecification and claims, it is meant any 5 from sole leather which isproperly prepared for thick leather of the type usually used for soles.

molding, and may be molded in any suitable man- The above and furtherobjects and advantages ner either by hand or machine, of this inventionwill become apparent as the de- Another object of this invention is toprovide er ption thereof pro reference be had 10 a one piece sole andpart of the upper of ashoe- 'to the accompanying drawings wherein: Y 10in which a complete substantially rigid arch sup- Figure l is a sideelevation showing the molded port is formed as part of the one piecesole with-- shoe portion of my invention on the last before out theaddition of any other piece to complete trimming of the crinkled edges;

the brace for the arch support. The arch sup- Fig. 2 is a longitudinalsection through Figure port firmly grips the whole arch and does not ala1 showing the molded lower of my invention 15 low lateral spreading ofthe foot at the arch. rimmed and removed fr m h l A further object ofthis invention is to provide Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the finishedshoe a simple two piece shoe construction, namely an taken on the line3-3 of Fig. 5 to illustrate clearupper and a lower portion, the lowerportion be- 3' the u a d s a pp Provided b ing so formed that itcompletely eliminates the the d d we of t s invention; I 2 necessity foran inner sole, a toe stiffener, a couni 4 s anenlarged sectional view ofthe joint vter stiffener, welting and bottom filling material, w n thupp r an th l w i l s a yet all of these supports are embodied in theonep channel form f Stitching; a

piece molded'lower portion of this invention. 5 is a side elevation ofthe finished shoe 0f 5 Another object of this invention is to provide sven v an absolutely seamless bottom part for the shoe The drawingsillustrate y y Of e p e construction of this invention. This isaccommethod of making the shoe according o this nplished by the factthat the whole sole and part n n, m ly, y h nd. It i to be is in ly ofthe upper including the toe bOX 'thQ arch upunderstood that we (.10 notWiShiiO be limited to port, the heel seat, and the counter are molded tmethed for m n he lower of the shoe. 30

in'one piece. The upper is joined to this one The d g may be accomp e ysuitab y piece lower portion in any suitable manner as by designed ery.

sewing, cementing, nailing, stapling or lacing. The last I0 is formedwith straight sides at the hi i ti further provides a strong t front endof the foot including the toe portion to portion because the sole isextended upwardly to a sufiicient height so that when the upper is at-35 form the toe box which, being formed of sol tached to the moldedlower at the dot-dash line,

l t i d and wear t t, it will not interfere with the movement of theBecause of the one piece molded lower portion, feet when hese sides neednot be this invention provides a shoe that is completely Straighty maybe diverging even s ght- 40 damp proof. If the leather is properly oiltreato In the a e se, a sli ht crink- 40 ed t becomes thoroughly watermoot; ling may be taken up by the leather in the mold- Another object ofthis inyention is to provide ing process as in the case ofthe formationof the a formed and set sole thatis flexible across the y counter P tshownball of the foot in all directions and yet it does The last is alsop y s ped t0 provide a not lose'its set shape when worn. Suitably curvedarch pp r a toe box of suf- 45 The finished shoe of this invention fitssnug-' fieient height, and e er- 1y on the foot and appears mall t th ybe- The sole leather after being prepared for moldcause of the absenceof the usual sole extension. ins in ny well known manner is molded orThe joint between the lower and upper does not stretched on the last andshaped to conform to interfere with the motion of the foot because theits ontour. When fully mol ed, the so e lea her 50 lower is joined tothe upper high up on the shoe. forms all in one piece the sole ii, thetoe box l2,

It is therefore very comfortable to the wearer. the arch support 63, theheel seat it, the counter Because there are fewer parts and feweroperal5 and a considerable portion of the upper body tions in itsconstruction, the shoe of this invenit of the shoe. At the arch supportportion on I tion is less costly to construct. A tough wear rethe insideof the foot the molded leather extends higher as indicated at n by thedotted line in Fig. 2.

As is clearly seen from Fig. 3, the molded lower extends upwards at thearch to the point of inward curvature. By this is meant the point atwhich the upward extension of the tangent to the curve at said point isinwardly directed.

When the last periphery begins to narrow down the leather is compactedor crinkled or pieces may be cut outat suitable places. The upperportion of the counter narrows considerably over the last, but crinklingat that point is practically avoided because of the relatively longsweeping curve downward toward the sides of the body l6 and also becausemost of the slack there created maybe taken up at these long sides.

After the leather becomes set the crinkled portionmay be cut away at l8as shown by the dotdash line and the molded lower may then be removedfrom the last.

- The rest of the upper l9 to complete the shoe may be of any suitablematerial and may be joined to the lower in any suitable manner.

When finished, the molded lower of the shoe of this invention ispermanently set and will not lose its shape. It is however suflicientlyflexible to be comfortable to the wearer and yet provide full and propersupport to all parts of the foot. invention lends itself to a lipchannel stitching between the lower and the upper on the face of theshoe because the heavy sole leather joining the upper is sufficientlythick at the joint to be so stitched. 'This method of stitching the lpper to the lower is illustrated on Figs. 3 and 4.

Asin the usual lip channel stitching a lip 20 is cut by a knifepreceding the stitch 2| which joins the lower to the upper. The lip thencovers the stitching and may be sealed down so that the stitching 'iscompletely invisible. This has heretofore not been done in the art toapplicants knowledge.

It is also feasible to shave away part of the thickness of the soleleather at the portion forming the upper part in order to make a lighterand more pliable shoe. Whenever strength is essential, as on the sole,toe'box, arch support and counter, the leather will be left at its fullthickness.

Women's, men's and children's shoes may be made according to thisinvention. For added thickness, as in the case of a sport shoe, or, ifthe sole becomes worn when in use, an additional sole may be attached tothe shoe in any well known manner.

It will be noted that a shoe constructed 8.0- cording to this inventionas clearly described above -will accomplish all-of the objects and haveall of the advantages as enumerated above.

We do not wish to be limited to the exact disclosure as herein shown,but all equivalents as may fall within the scope of the appended claimsare meant to be included,

We claim: l

1. A shoe construction comprising an upper portion and an outer lowerportion, the outer lower portion being molded of one piece ofthickleather, said molded outer lower conforming to the contour of thefoot and arch in the directions longitudinally 'and crosswise of thefoot, said molded outer lower extending upwards from the bottom of theshoe,-such upward extension being.

arranged entirely around the shoe thereby form-'- counter for the shoe.

ing a side wall-which provides part of the upper, a stiff toe box and anarch support, said side wall extending upwards at the rear substantiallybeyond the height of the side wall to the usual height of a counterthereby providing a stiif counter for the shoe.

2. A shoe construction comprising an upper portion and an outer lowerportion, the outer lower portion being molded of one piece of thickleather, said molded outer lower conforming to the contour of the footand arch in the directions longitudinally and crosswise of the foot,said molded outer lower extending upwards from the bottom of the shoe,such upward extension being arranged entirely around the shoe therebyforming a side wall which provides part of the upper, a stiff toe boxand an arch support, said side wall extending upwards at the inner sideof the instep to but not beyond the point of inward curvature of theinstep thereby providing a full arch support.

3. A shoe construction comprising an upper portion and an outer lowerportion, .the outermolded outer lower extending upwards from the bottomof the shoe, such upward extension being arranged entirely around theshoe thereby forming a side wall which provides part of the upper,

.a stiif toe box and an arch support, said side wall extending upwardsat the rear substantially beyond the height of the side wall to theusual height of a counter thereby providing a stiff counter for theshoe, said upper portion being of relatively soft flexible materialsecured to said side wall.

4. A shoe construction comprising an upper portion and an outer lowerportion, the outer lower portion being molded of one piece of thickleather, said molded outer lower conforming to the contour of the footand arch in the directions longitudinally and crosswise of the foot,said molded outer lower extending upwards from the bottom of the shoe,such upward extension being arranged entirely around the shoe therebyforming a side wall which provides part 'of the upper,

a stiff toe box and an arch support, said side wall extending upwardsand entirely around the shoe to but not beyond the points of inwardcurvature of the upper around'said shoe except at the rear thereof wheresaid side wall extends above said point of inward curvature to form astiff counter.

5. A shoe construction comprising an upper portion and an outer lowerportion, the outer lowerportion. being molded of one piece of thick yondthe height of the side wall to the' usual.

height of a counter thereby providing a stlif DAVID E. LEVIN. JOSEPH W.MCGEE.

